Other

Spork Dining at its Finest

Spork Dining at its Finest


We are searching data for your request:

Forums and discussions:
Manuals and reference books:
Data from registers:
Wait the end of the search in all databases.
Upon completion, a link will appear to access the found materials.

Photo by Lauren Beane, 3 Cheese Brisket Sandwich

If you come in with a hearty appetite looking to devour a whole pig, you might want to leave the sow alone and just get an order of the Pig Ballz. (And yes, that is ballz with a Z, not to be mistaken for the huevos of the pig.) These ballz are made up of smoked pork, jalapeños and cheddar cheese rolled together, fried, and served with a side of fries and chipotle ranch. Now those are some balls you can sink your teeth into!

Photo by Lauren Beane

There are so many amazing pulled pork items on the menu- plus ribs and smoked chicken- it’s actually difficult to decide on a meal. You can order sandwiches, meat plates, nachos, tacos — even a stuffed sweet potato. The Smokin Pig added on to its once limited menu as it grew from a food truck, serving up its smokey meats out in the parking lot. Now the business has stepped up its swag and moved into a cozy and very clean establishment on W. 18th Ave.

Photo by Lauren Beane

Photo by Lauren Beane

The service at the Smokin Pig was friendly and accommodating. It offers several draft beers, cider and wine, and each table has its own paper towel roll to offer to sticky patrons (a nice element of messy barbecue charm). If you decide not to hang out at the restaurant, you have the option to take your styrofoam container to go. As a Eugenian it hurt my environmental sensibility to have each item served this way, but grubbing BBQ meals out of a flimsy takeout container is pretty standard. But by far, the most surprising aspect of Smokin Pig is being handed a plastic spork by the counter guy, saying, “You’re not going to want to forget this.”

Photo by Lauren Beane, Pulled Pork Plate with Coleslaw and Mac

Needless to say, I didn’t. Although it wasn’t the most useful of utensils, it was apparently essential, and who doesn’t appreciate the infrequently found spork? Now that you know what to expect, which meat will you sink your teeth into first?

Location: 2260 W 18th Ave Eugene, OR 97402
Hours of operation: Tue-Sat: 11am-8pm

View the original post, Spork Dining at its Finest, on Spoon University.

Check out more good stuff from Spoon University here:

  • 12 ways to eat cookie butter
  • Ultimate Chipotle Menu Hacks
  • Copycat Chick-Fil-A sandwich recipe
  • The Science Behind Food Cravings
  • How to Make Your Own Almond Flour

The Tadich Grill Puzzle / Traditional dining at its best - and worst

Tadich Grill presents a no-win situation to a restaurant critic.

In business since 1849, it is the doyen of San Francisco eateries. Therefore, if you criticize its popularity, you are viewed as a culinary gadfly who only appreciates the newest trends. If you proclaim everything wonderful, you will be accused of being a traditionalist, a roadblock to the creative chefs who are changing the way we eat.

So let's ride the fence a moment and say Tadich offers some of the best and worst characteristics of a traditional restaurant.

There's something totally satisfying about the 1930s Financial District look: The wood partitions between tables, the intricate tile floor and the long ornate bar with a half dozen kinds of cigars displayed for sale at the end.

But when you come down off the fence, you are faced with food that often doesn't live up to the mystique. There's nothing better than well-made traditional recipes or even vegetables cooked to the '50s mark of soggy perfection, but many dishes we sampled on three visits were improperly prepared or handled.

In the fried-prawn entree ($12.25), we encountered enough ammonia aroma to strip wax off a floor. The steamed spinach ($2.25), was served without benefit of salt, pepper or any flavoring.

CIOPPINO PROBLEMS

After eating Tadich Grill's cioppino ($13.25), I can see why this once-popular San Francisco dish has fallen into disfavor. The shrimp were gritty, the other shellfish were rubbery and the tomato sauce was thick, gloppy and sweet, obscuring any flavor that might have lingered in the seafood.

A grilled tuna special was so overcooked and dry, it formed a lump in the throat the accompanying long-branch potatoes, which are sliced thick and fried, tasted as if they had been waiting a long while before hitting the plate.

We also ordered the sauteed scallops in white wine and mushrooms ($12.75). The scallops were as rubbery as bouncing balls and if we hadn't been told what was in the sauce, it would have remained a mystery for eternity. It was brown, starchy and had no flavor save the lemon we squeezed into it.

Some of the best bets on the menu included the sand dabs ($10.25), pan grilled with a light lemon sauce. The fried calamari ($8.75 as an appetizer), presented with both the famous tartar sauce and a red chile sauce, were nicely done and the squid had just the right amount of chewiness.

We also enjoyed the Boston clam chowder ($1.95 a cup), a thick starchy mixture with a heavy dose of celery and clam flavor. But the soup is best at lunch, because by dinner it gets thick enough to paper a wall.

TOOTHSOME TONGUE

The restaurant offers about seven daily specials, most of them fish. Also available are lamb, beef or other meat entrees. On one visit, boiled tongue ($9.95) illustrated how good a down-home recipe can be when done right. Although the tongue was slightly overdone and a bit mushy, the flavor was excellent and well complemented by the creole sauce spooned on top.

The best things about the food are the big bowls of lemon wedges that adorn each table, the tartar sauce that tastes akin to potato salad made from mashed potatoes and the great crusty sourdough bread.

The same tradition that so enlivens these aspects of the restaurant also give a boost to the service. Most waiters have been there for years, wearing white coats, aprons and splashy red ties. These gentleman can sling hash in their sleep, and at times you swear they do, but there's something endearing (and somewhat crusty) about the whole affair.

The wine list, unfortunately, is a throwback to 30 years ago. Only the biggest producers are represented: Wente, Martini, Krug and Mondavi. There's nothing wrong with these wines, but the list, much like the food, seems lazy and lifeless.

After two lunches and a dinner at the restaurant, I can't understand why anyone would wait 45 minutes, standing shoulder to shoulder in a crowded bar, to be seated for this mediocre food. In a day when convenience reigns, I also can't fathom why patrons don't complain about the restaurant's policy of accepting only cash.

Obviously the restaurant has some magical quality that escapes me. After all, the place is always bustling with regular and new customers. So how can all those people be wrong?

Maybe they aren't. The only way to know for sure is to check it out yourself.


The Tadich Grill Puzzle / Traditional dining at its best - and worst

Tadich Grill presents a no-win situation to a restaurant critic.

In business since 1849, it is the doyen of San Francisco eateries. Therefore, if you criticize its popularity, you are viewed as a culinary gadfly who only appreciates the newest trends. If you proclaim everything wonderful, you will be accused of being a traditionalist, a roadblock to the creative chefs who are changing the way we eat.

So let's ride the fence a moment and say Tadich offers some of the best and worst characteristics of a traditional restaurant.

There's something totally satisfying about the 1930s Financial District look: The wood partitions between tables, the intricate tile floor and the long ornate bar with a half dozen kinds of cigars displayed for sale at the end.

But when you come down off the fence, you are faced with food that often doesn't live up to the mystique. There's nothing better than well-made traditional recipes or even vegetables cooked to the '50s mark of soggy perfection, but many dishes we sampled on three visits were improperly prepared or handled.

In the fried-prawn entree ($12.25), we encountered enough ammonia aroma to strip wax off a floor. The steamed spinach ($2.25), was served without benefit of salt, pepper or any flavoring.

CIOPPINO PROBLEMS

After eating Tadich Grill's cioppino ($13.25), I can see why this once-popular San Francisco dish has fallen into disfavor. The shrimp were gritty, the other shellfish were rubbery and the tomato sauce was thick, gloppy and sweet, obscuring any flavor that might have lingered in the seafood.

A grilled tuna special was so overcooked and dry, it formed a lump in the throat the accompanying long-branch potatoes, which are sliced thick and fried, tasted as if they had been waiting a long while before hitting the plate.

We also ordered the sauteed scallops in white wine and mushrooms ($12.75). The scallops were as rubbery as bouncing balls and if we hadn't been told what was in the sauce, it would have remained a mystery for eternity. It was brown, starchy and had no flavor save the lemon we squeezed into it.

Some of the best bets on the menu included the sand dabs ($10.25), pan grilled with a light lemon sauce. The fried calamari ($8.75 as an appetizer), presented with both the famous tartar sauce and a red chile sauce, were nicely done and the squid had just the right amount of chewiness.

We also enjoyed the Boston clam chowder ($1.95 a cup), a thick starchy mixture with a heavy dose of celery and clam flavor. But the soup is best at lunch, because by dinner it gets thick enough to paper a wall.

TOOTHSOME TONGUE

The restaurant offers about seven daily specials, most of them fish. Also available are lamb, beef or other meat entrees. On one visit, boiled tongue ($9.95) illustrated how good a down-home recipe can be when done right. Although the tongue was slightly overdone and a bit mushy, the flavor was excellent and well complemented by the creole sauce spooned on top.

The best things about the food are the big bowls of lemon wedges that adorn each table, the tartar sauce that tastes akin to potato salad made from mashed potatoes and the great crusty sourdough bread.

The same tradition that so enlivens these aspects of the restaurant also give a boost to the service. Most waiters have been there for years, wearing white coats, aprons and splashy red ties. These gentleman can sling hash in their sleep, and at times you swear they do, but there's something endearing (and somewhat crusty) about the whole affair.

The wine list, unfortunately, is a throwback to 30 years ago. Only the biggest producers are represented: Wente, Martini, Krug and Mondavi. There's nothing wrong with these wines, but the list, much like the food, seems lazy and lifeless.

After two lunches and a dinner at the restaurant, I can't understand why anyone would wait 45 minutes, standing shoulder to shoulder in a crowded bar, to be seated for this mediocre food. In a day when convenience reigns, I also can't fathom why patrons don't complain about the restaurant's policy of accepting only cash.

Obviously the restaurant has some magical quality that escapes me. After all, the place is always bustling with regular and new customers. So how can all those people be wrong?

Maybe they aren't. The only way to know for sure is to check it out yourself.


The Tadich Grill Puzzle / Traditional dining at its best - and worst

Tadich Grill presents a no-win situation to a restaurant critic.

In business since 1849, it is the doyen of San Francisco eateries. Therefore, if you criticize its popularity, you are viewed as a culinary gadfly who only appreciates the newest trends. If you proclaim everything wonderful, you will be accused of being a traditionalist, a roadblock to the creative chefs who are changing the way we eat.

So let's ride the fence a moment and say Tadich offers some of the best and worst characteristics of a traditional restaurant.

There's something totally satisfying about the 1930s Financial District look: The wood partitions between tables, the intricate tile floor and the long ornate bar with a half dozen kinds of cigars displayed for sale at the end.

But when you come down off the fence, you are faced with food that often doesn't live up to the mystique. There's nothing better than well-made traditional recipes or even vegetables cooked to the '50s mark of soggy perfection, but many dishes we sampled on three visits were improperly prepared or handled.

In the fried-prawn entree ($12.25), we encountered enough ammonia aroma to strip wax off a floor. The steamed spinach ($2.25), was served without benefit of salt, pepper or any flavoring.

CIOPPINO PROBLEMS

After eating Tadich Grill's cioppino ($13.25), I can see why this once-popular San Francisco dish has fallen into disfavor. The shrimp were gritty, the other shellfish were rubbery and the tomato sauce was thick, gloppy and sweet, obscuring any flavor that might have lingered in the seafood.

A grilled tuna special was so overcooked and dry, it formed a lump in the throat the accompanying long-branch potatoes, which are sliced thick and fried, tasted as if they had been waiting a long while before hitting the plate.

We also ordered the sauteed scallops in white wine and mushrooms ($12.75). The scallops were as rubbery as bouncing balls and if we hadn't been told what was in the sauce, it would have remained a mystery for eternity. It was brown, starchy and had no flavor save the lemon we squeezed into it.

Some of the best bets on the menu included the sand dabs ($10.25), pan grilled with a light lemon sauce. The fried calamari ($8.75 as an appetizer), presented with both the famous tartar sauce and a red chile sauce, were nicely done and the squid had just the right amount of chewiness.

We also enjoyed the Boston clam chowder ($1.95 a cup), a thick starchy mixture with a heavy dose of celery and clam flavor. But the soup is best at lunch, because by dinner it gets thick enough to paper a wall.

TOOTHSOME TONGUE

The restaurant offers about seven daily specials, most of them fish. Also available are lamb, beef or other meat entrees. On one visit, boiled tongue ($9.95) illustrated how good a down-home recipe can be when done right. Although the tongue was slightly overdone and a bit mushy, the flavor was excellent and well complemented by the creole sauce spooned on top.

The best things about the food are the big bowls of lemon wedges that adorn each table, the tartar sauce that tastes akin to potato salad made from mashed potatoes and the great crusty sourdough bread.

The same tradition that so enlivens these aspects of the restaurant also give a boost to the service. Most waiters have been there for years, wearing white coats, aprons and splashy red ties. These gentleman can sling hash in their sleep, and at times you swear they do, but there's something endearing (and somewhat crusty) about the whole affair.

The wine list, unfortunately, is a throwback to 30 years ago. Only the biggest producers are represented: Wente, Martini, Krug and Mondavi. There's nothing wrong with these wines, but the list, much like the food, seems lazy and lifeless.

After two lunches and a dinner at the restaurant, I can't understand why anyone would wait 45 minutes, standing shoulder to shoulder in a crowded bar, to be seated for this mediocre food. In a day when convenience reigns, I also can't fathom why patrons don't complain about the restaurant's policy of accepting only cash.

Obviously the restaurant has some magical quality that escapes me. After all, the place is always bustling with regular and new customers. So how can all those people be wrong?

Maybe they aren't. The only way to know for sure is to check it out yourself.


The Tadich Grill Puzzle / Traditional dining at its best - and worst

Tadich Grill presents a no-win situation to a restaurant critic.

In business since 1849, it is the doyen of San Francisco eateries. Therefore, if you criticize its popularity, you are viewed as a culinary gadfly who only appreciates the newest trends. If you proclaim everything wonderful, you will be accused of being a traditionalist, a roadblock to the creative chefs who are changing the way we eat.

So let's ride the fence a moment and say Tadich offers some of the best and worst characteristics of a traditional restaurant.

There's something totally satisfying about the 1930s Financial District look: The wood partitions between tables, the intricate tile floor and the long ornate bar with a half dozen kinds of cigars displayed for sale at the end.

But when you come down off the fence, you are faced with food that often doesn't live up to the mystique. There's nothing better than well-made traditional recipes or even vegetables cooked to the '50s mark of soggy perfection, but many dishes we sampled on three visits were improperly prepared or handled.

In the fried-prawn entree ($12.25), we encountered enough ammonia aroma to strip wax off a floor. The steamed spinach ($2.25), was served without benefit of salt, pepper or any flavoring.

CIOPPINO PROBLEMS

After eating Tadich Grill's cioppino ($13.25), I can see why this once-popular San Francisco dish has fallen into disfavor. The shrimp were gritty, the other shellfish were rubbery and the tomato sauce was thick, gloppy and sweet, obscuring any flavor that might have lingered in the seafood.

A grilled tuna special was so overcooked and dry, it formed a lump in the throat the accompanying long-branch potatoes, which are sliced thick and fried, tasted as if they had been waiting a long while before hitting the plate.

We also ordered the sauteed scallops in white wine and mushrooms ($12.75). The scallops were as rubbery as bouncing balls and if we hadn't been told what was in the sauce, it would have remained a mystery for eternity. It was brown, starchy and had no flavor save the lemon we squeezed into it.

Some of the best bets on the menu included the sand dabs ($10.25), pan grilled with a light lemon sauce. The fried calamari ($8.75 as an appetizer), presented with both the famous tartar sauce and a red chile sauce, were nicely done and the squid had just the right amount of chewiness.

We also enjoyed the Boston clam chowder ($1.95 a cup), a thick starchy mixture with a heavy dose of celery and clam flavor. But the soup is best at lunch, because by dinner it gets thick enough to paper a wall.

TOOTHSOME TONGUE

The restaurant offers about seven daily specials, most of them fish. Also available are lamb, beef or other meat entrees. On one visit, boiled tongue ($9.95) illustrated how good a down-home recipe can be when done right. Although the tongue was slightly overdone and a bit mushy, the flavor was excellent and well complemented by the creole sauce spooned on top.

The best things about the food are the big bowls of lemon wedges that adorn each table, the tartar sauce that tastes akin to potato salad made from mashed potatoes and the great crusty sourdough bread.

The same tradition that so enlivens these aspects of the restaurant also give a boost to the service. Most waiters have been there for years, wearing white coats, aprons and splashy red ties. These gentleman can sling hash in their sleep, and at times you swear they do, but there's something endearing (and somewhat crusty) about the whole affair.

The wine list, unfortunately, is a throwback to 30 years ago. Only the biggest producers are represented: Wente, Martini, Krug and Mondavi. There's nothing wrong with these wines, but the list, much like the food, seems lazy and lifeless.

After two lunches and a dinner at the restaurant, I can't understand why anyone would wait 45 minutes, standing shoulder to shoulder in a crowded bar, to be seated for this mediocre food. In a day when convenience reigns, I also can't fathom why patrons don't complain about the restaurant's policy of accepting only cash.

Obviously the restaurant has some magical quality that escapes me. After all, the place is always bustling with regular and new customers. So how can all those people be wrong?

Maybe they aren't. The only way to know for sure is to check it out yourself.


The Tadich Grill Puzzle / Traditional dining at its best - and worst

Tadich Grill presents a no-win situation to a restaurant critic.

In business since 1849, it is the doyen of San Francisco eateries. Therefore, if you criticize its popularity, you are viewed as a culinary gadfly who only appreciates the newest trends. If you proclaim everything wonderful, you will be accused of being a traditionalist, a roadblock to the creative chefs who are changing the way we eat.

So let's ride the fence a moment and say Tadich offers some of the best and worst characteristics of a traditional restaurant.

There's something totally satisfying about the 1930s Financial District look: The wood partitions between tables, the intricate tile floor and the long ornate bar with a half dozen kinds of cigars displayed for sale at the end.

But when you come down off the fence, you are faced with food that often doesn't live up to the mystique. There's nothing better than well-made traditional recipes or even vegetables cooked to the '50s mark of soggy perfection, but many dishes we sampled on three visits were improperly prepared or handled.

In the fried-prawn entree ($12.25), we encountered enough ammonia aroma to strip wax off a floor. The steamed spinach ($2.25), was served without benefit of salt, pepper or any flavoring.

CIOPPINO PROBLEMS

After eating Tadich Grill's cioppino ($13.25), I can see why this once-popular San Francisco dish has fallen into disfavor. The shrimp were gritty, the other shellfish were rubbery and the tomato sauce was thick, gloppy and sweet, obscuring any flavor that might have lingered in the seafood.

A grilled tuna special was so overcooked and dry, it formed a lump in the throat the accompanying long-branch potatoes, which are sliced thick and fried, tasted as if they had been waiting a long while before hitting the plate.

We also ordered the sauteed scallops in white wine and mushrooms ($12.75). The scallops were as rubbery as bouncing balls and if we hadn't been told what was in the sauce, it would have remained a mystery for eternity. It was brown, starchy and had no flavor save the lemon we squeezed into it.

Some of the best bets on the menu included the sand dabs ($10.25), pan grilled with a light lemon sauce. The fried calamari ($8.75 as an appetizer), presented with both the famous tartar sauce and a red chile sauce, were nicely done and the squid had just the right amount of chewiness.

We also enjoyed the Boston clam chowder ($1.95 a cup), a thick starchy mixture with a heavy dose of celery and clam flavor. But the soup is best at lunch, because by dinner it gets thick enough to paper a wall.

TOOTHSOME TONGUE

The restaurant offers about seven daily specials, most of them fish. Also available are lamb, beef or other meat entrees. On one visit, boiled tongue ($9.95) illustrated how good a down-home recipe can be when done right. Although the tongue was slightly overdone and a bit mushy, the flavor was excellent and well complemented by the creole sauce spooned on top.

The best things about the food are the big bowls of lemon wedges that adorn each table, the tartar sauce that tastes akin to potato salad made from mashed potatoes and the great crusty sourdough bread.

The same tradition that so enlivens these aspects of the restaurant also give a boost to the service. Most waiters have been there for years, wearing white coats, aprons and splashy red ties. These gentleman can sling hash in their sleep, and at times you swear they do, but there's something endearing (and somewhat crusty) about the whole affair.

The wine list, unfortunately, is a throwback to 30 years ago. Only the biggest producers are represented: Wente, Martini, Krug and Mondavi. There's nothing wrong with these wines, but the list, much like the food, seems lazy and lifeless.

After two lunches and a dinner at the restaurant, I can't understand why anyone would wait 45 minutes, standing shoulder to shoulder in a crowded bar, to be seated for this mediocre food. In a day when convenience reigns, I also can't fathom why patrons don't complain about the restaurant's policy of accepting only cash.

Obviously the restaurant has some magical quality that escapes me. After all, the place is always bustling with regular and new customers. So how can all those people be wrong?

Maybe they aren't. The only way to know for sure is to check it out yourself.


The Tadich Grill Puzzle / Traditional dining at its best - and worst

Tadich Grill presents a no-win situation to a restaurant critic.

In business since 1849, it is the doyen of San Francisco eateries. Therefore, if you criticize its popularity, you are viewed as a culinary gadfly who only appreciates the newest trends. If you proclaim everything wonderful, you will be accused of being a traditionalist, a roadblock to the creative chefs who are changing the way we eat.

So let's ride the fence a moment and say Tadich offers some of the best and worst characteristics of a traditional restaurant.

There's something totally satisfying about the 1930s Financial District look: The wood partitions between tables, the intricate tile floor and the long ornate bar with a half dozen kinds of cigars displayed for sale at the end.

But when you come down off the fence, you are faced with food that often doesn't live up to the mystique. There's nothing better than well-made traditional recipes or even vegetables cooked to the '50s mark of soggy perfection, but many dishes we sampled on three visits were improperly prepared or handled.

In the fried-prawn entree ($12.25), we encountered enough ammonia aroma to strip wax off a floor. The steamed spinach ($2.25), was served without benefit of salt, pepper or any flavoring.

CIOPPINO PROBLEMS

After eating Tadich Grill's cioppino ($13.25), I can see why this once-popular San Francisco dish has fallen into disfavor. The shrimp were gritty, the other shellfish were rubbery and the tomato sauce was thick, gloppy and sweet, obscuring any flavor that might have lingered in the seafood.

A grilled tuna special was so overcooked and dry, it formed a lump in the throat the accompanying long-branch potatoes, which are sliced thick and fried, tasted as if they had been waiting a long while before hitting the plate.

We also ordered the sauteed scallops in white wine and mushrooms ($12.75). The scallops were as rubbery as bouncing balls and if we hadn't been told what was in the sauce, it would have remained a mystery for eternity. It was brown, starchy and had no flavor save the lemon we squeezed into it.

Some of the best bets on the menu included the sand dabs ($10.25), pan grilled with a light lemon sauce. The fried calamari ($8.75 as an appetizer), presented with both the famous tartar sauce and a red chile sauce, were nicely done and the squid had just the right amount of chewiness.

We also enjoyed the Boston clam chowder ($1.95 a cup), a thick starchy mixture with a heavy dose of celery and clam flavor. But the soup is best at lunch, because by dinner it gets thick enough to paper a wall.

TOOTHSOME TONGUE

The restaurant offers about seven daily specials, most of them fish. Also available are lamb, beef or other meat entrees. On one visit, boiled tongue ($9.95) illustrated how good a down-home recipe can be when done right. Although the tongue was slightly overdone and a bit mushy, the flavor was excellent and well complemented by the creole sauce spooned on top.

The best things about the food are the big bowls of lemon wedges that adorn each table, the tartar sauce that tastes akin to potato salad made from mashed potatoes and the great crusty sourdough bread.

The same tradition that so enlivens these aspects of the restaurant also give a boost to the service. Most waiters have been there for years, wearing white coats, aprons and splashy red ties. These gentleman can sling hash in their sleep, and at times you swear they do, but there's something endearing (and somewhat crusty) about the whole affair.

The wine list, unfortunately, is a throwback to 30 years ago. Only the biggest producers are represented: Wente, Martini, Krug and Mondavi. There's nothing wrong with these wines, but the list, much like the food, seems lazy and lifeless.

After two lunches and a dinner at the restaurant, I can't understand why anyone would wait 45 minutes, standing shoulder to shoulder in a crowded bar, to be seated for this mediocre food. In a day when convenience reigns, I also can't fathom why patrons don't complain about the restaurant's policy of accepting only cash.

Obviously the restaurant has some magical quality that escapes me. After all, the place is always bustling with regular and new customers. So how can all those people be wrong?

Maybe they aren't. The only way to know for sure is to check it out yourself.


The Tadich Grill Puzzle / Traditional dining at its best - and worst

Tadich Grill presents a no-win situation to a restaurant critic.

In business since 1849, it is the doyen of San Francisco eateries. Therefore, if you criticize its popularity, you are viewed as a culinary gadfly who only appreciates the newest trends. If you proclaim everything wonderful, you will be accused of being a traditionalist, a roadblock to the creative chefs who are changing the way we eat.

So let's ride the fence a moment and say Tadich offers some of the best and worst characteristics of a traditional restaurant.

There's something totally satisfying about the 1930s Financial District look: The wood partitions between tables, the intricate tile floor and the long ornate bar with a half dozen kinds of cigars displayed for sale at the end.

But when you come down off the fence, you are faced with food that often doesn't live up to the mystique. There's nothing better than well-made traditional recipes or even vegetables cooked to the '50s mark of soggy perfection, but many dishes we sampled on three visits were improperly prepared or handled.

In the fried-prawn entree ($12.25), we encountered enough ammonia aroma to strip wax off a floor. The steamed spinach ($2.25), was served without benefit of salt, pepper or any flavoring.

CIOPPINO PROBLEMS

After eating Tadich Grill's cioppino ($13.25), I can see why this once-popular San Francisco dish has fallen into disfavor. The shrimp were gritty, the other shellfish were rubbery and the tomato sauce was thick, gloppy and sweet, obscuring any flavor that might have lingered in the seafood.

A grilled tuna special was so overcooked and dry, it formed a lump in the throat the accompanying long-branch potatoes, which are sliced thick and fried, tasted as if they had been waiting a long while before hitting the plate.

We also ordered the sauteed scallops in white wine and mushrooms ($12.75). The scallops were as rubbery as bouncing balls and if we hadn't been told what was in the sauce, it would have remained a mystery for eternity. It was brown, starchy and had no flavor save the lemon we squeezed into it.

Some of the best bets on the menu included the sand dabs ($10.25), pan grilled with a light lemon sauce. The fried calamari ($8.75 as an appetizer), presented with both the famous tartar sauce and a red chile sauce, were nicely done and the squid had just the right amount of chewiness.

We also enjoyed the Boston clam chowder ($1.95 a cup), a thick starchy mixture with a heavy dose of celery and clam flavor. But the soup is best at lunch, because by dinner it gets thick enough to paper a wall.

TOOTHSOME TONGUE

The restaurant offers about seven daily specials, most of them fish. Also available are lamb, beef or other meat entrees. On one visit, boiled tongue ($9.95) illustrated how good a down-home recipe can be when done right. Although the tongue was slightly overdone and a bit mushy, the flavor was excellent and well complemented by the creole sauce spooned on top.

The best things about the food are the big bowls of lemon wedges that adorn each table, the tartar sauce that tastes akin to potato salad made from mashed potatoes and the great crusty sourdough bread.

The same tradition that so enlivens these aspects of the restaurant also give a boost to the service. Most waiters have been there for years, wearing white coats, aprons and splashy red ties. These gentleman can sling hash in their sleep, and at times you swear they do, but there's something endearing (and somewhat crusty) about the whole affair.

The wine list, unfortunately, is a throwback to 30 years ago. Only the biggest producers are represented: Wente, Martini, Krug and Mondavi. There's nothing wrong with these wines, but the list, much like the food, seems lazy and lifeless.

After two lunches and a dinner at the restaurant, I can't understand why anyone would wait 45 minutes, standing shoulder to shoulder in a crowded bar, to be seated for this mediocre food. In a day when convenience reigns, I also can't fathom why patrons don't complain about the restaurant's policy of accepting only cash.

Obviously the restaurant has some magical quality that escapes me. After all, the place is always bustling with regular and new customers. So how can all those people be wrong?

Maybe they aren't. The only way to know for sure is to check it out yourself.


The Tadich Grill Puzzle / Traditional dining at its best - and worst

Tadich Grill presents a no-win situation to a restaurant critic.

In business since 1849, it is the doyen of San Francisco eateries. Therefore, if you criticize its popularity, you are viewed as a culinary gadfly who only appreciates the newest trends. If you proclaim everything wonderful, you will be accused of being a traditionalist, a roadblock to the creative chefs who are changing the way we eat.

So let's ride the fence a moment and say Tadich offers some of the best and worst characteristics of a traditional restaurant.

There's something totally satisfying about the 1930s Financial District look: The wood partitions between tables, the intricate tile floor and the long ornate bar with a half dozen kinds of cigars displayed for sale at the end.

But when you come down off the fence, you are faced with food that often doesn't live up to the mystique. There's nothing better than well-made traditional recipes or even vegetables cooked to the '50s mark of soggy perfection, but many dishes we sampled on three visits were improperly prepared or handled.

In the fried-prawn entree ($12.25), we encountered enough ammonia aroma to strip wax off a floor. The steamed spinach ($2.25), was served without benefit of salt, pepper or any flavoring.

CIOPPINO PROBLEMS

After eating Tadich Grill's cioppino ($13.25), I can see why this once-popular San Francisco dish has fallen into disfavor. The shrimp were gritty, the other shellfish were rubbery and the tomato sauce was thick, gloppy and sweet, obscuring any flavor that might have lingered in the seafood.

A grilled tuna special was so overcooked and dry, it formed a lump in the throat the accompanying long-branch potatoes, which are sliced thick and fried, tasted as if they had been waiting a long while before hitting the plate.

We also ordered the sauteed scallops in white wine and mushrooms ($12.75). The scallops were as rubbery as bouncing balls and if we hadn't been told what was in the sauce, it would have remained a mystery for eternity. It was brown, starchy and had no flavor save the lemon we squeezed into it.

Some of the best bets on the menu included the sand dabs ($10.25), pan grilled with a light lemon sauce. The fried calamari ($8.75 as an appetizer), presented with both the famous tartar sauce and a red chile sauce, were nicely done and the squid had just the right amount of chewiness.

We also enjoyed the Boston clam chowder ($1.95 a cup), a thick starchy mixture with a heavy dose of celery and clam flavor. But the soup is best at lunch, because by dinner it gets thick enough to paper a wall.

TOOTHSOME TONGUE

The restaurant offers about seven daily specials, most of them fish. Also available are lamb, beef or other meat entrees. On one visit, boiled tongue ($9.95) illustrated how good a down-home recipe can be when done right. Although the tongue was slightly overdone and a bit mushy, the flavor was excellent and well complemented by the creole sauce spooned on top.

The best things about the food are the big bowls of lemon wedges that adorn each table, the tartar sauce that tastes akin to potato salad made from mashed potatoes and the great crusty sourdough bread.

The same tradition that so enlivens these aspects of the restaurant also give a boost to the service. Most waiters have been there for years, wearing white coats, aprons and splashy red ties. These gentleman can sling hash in their sleep, and at times you swear they do, but there's something endearing (and somewhat crusty) about the whole affair.

The wine list, unfortunately, is a throwback to 30 years ago. Only the biggest producers are represented: Wente, Martini, Krug and Mondavi. There's nothing wrong with these wines, but the list, much like the food, seems lazy and lifeless.

After two lunches and a dinner at the restaurant, I can't understand why anyone would wait 45 minutes, standing shoulder to shoulder in a crowded bar, to be seated for this mediocre food. In a day when convenience reigns, I also can't fathom why patrons don't complain about the restaurant's policy of accepting only cash.

Obviously the restaurant has some magical quality that escapes me. After all, the place is always bustling with regular and new customers. So how can all those people be wrong?

Maybe they aren't. The only way to know for sure is to check it out yourself.


The Tadich Grill Puzzle / Traditional dining at its best - and worst

Tadich Grill presents a no-win situation to a restaurant critic.

In business since 1849, it is the doyen of San Francisco eateries. Therefore, if you criticize its popularity, you are viewed as a culinary gadfly who only appreciates the newest trends. If you proclaim everything wonderful, you will be accused of being a traditionalist, a roadblock to the creative chefs who are changing the way we eat.

So let's ride the fence a moment and say Tadich offers some of the best and worst characteristics of a traditional restaurant.

There's something totally satisfying about the 1930s Financial District look: The wood partitions between tables, the intricate tile floor and the long ornate bar with a half dozen kinds of cigars displayed for sale at the end.

But when you come down off the fence, you are faced with food that often doesn't live up to the mystique. There's nothing better than well-made traditional recipes or even vegetables cooked to the '50s mark of soggy perfection, but many dishes we sampled on three visits were improperly prepared or handled.

In the fried-prawn entree ($12.25), we encountered enough ammonia aroma to strip wax off a floor. The steamed spinach ($2.25), was served without benefit of salt, pepper or any flavoring.

CIOPPINO PROBLEMS

After eating Tadich Grill's cioppino ($13.25), I can see why this once-popular San Francisco dish has fallen into disfavor. The shrimp were gritty, the other shellfish were rubbery and the tomato sauce was thick, gloppy and sweet, obscuring any flavor that might have lingered in the seafood.

A grilled tuna special was so overcooked and dry, it formed a lump in the throat the accompanying long-branch potatoes, which are sliced thick and fried, tasted as if they had been waiting a long while before hitting the plate.

We also ordered the sauteed scallops in white wine and mushrooms ($12.75). The scallops were as rubbery as bouncing balls and if we hadn't been told what was in the sauce, it would have remained a mystery for eternity. It was brown, starchy and had no flavor save the lemon we squeezed into it.

Some of the best bets on the menu included the sand dabs ($10.25), pan grilled with a light lemon sauce. The fried calamari ($8.75 as an appetizer), presented with both the famous tartar sauce and a red chile sauce, were nicely done and the squid had just the right amount of chewiness.

We also enjoyed the Boston clam chowder ($1.95 a cup), a thick starchy mixture with a heavy dose of celery and clam flavor. But the soup is best at lunch, because by dinner it gets thick enough to paper a wall.

TOOTHSOME TONGUE

The restaurant offers about seven daily specials, most of them fish. Also available are lamb, beef or other meat entrees. On one visit, boiled tongue ($9.95) illustrated how good a down-home recipe can be when done right. Although the tongue was slightly overdone and a bit mushy, the flavor was excellent and well complemented by the creole sauce spooned on top.

The best things about the food are the big bowls of lemon wedges that adorn each table, the tartar sauce that tastes akin to potato salad made from mashed potatoes and the great crusty sourdough bread.

The same tradition that so enlivens these aspects of the restaurant also give a boost to the service. Most waiters have been there for years, wearing white coats, aprons and splashy red ties. These gentleman can sling hash in their sleep, and at times you swear they do, but there's something endearing (and somewhat crusty) about the whole affair.

The wine list, unfortunately, is a throwback to 30 years ago. Only the biggest producers are represented: Wente, Martini, Krug and Mondavi. There's nothing wrong with these wines, but the list, much like the food, seems lazy and lifeless.

After two lunches and a dinner at the restaurant, I can't understand why anyone would wait 45 minutes, standing shoulder to shoulder in a crowded bar, to be seated for this mediocre food. In a day when convenience reigns, I also can't fathom why patrons don't complain about the restaurant's policy of accepting only cash.

Obviously the restaurant has some magical quality that escapes me. After all, the place is always bustling with regular and new customers. So how can all those people be wrong?

Maybe they aren't. The only way to know for sure is to check it out yourself.


The Tadich Grill Puzzle / Traditional dining at its best - and worst

Tadich Grill presents a no-win situation to a restaurant critic.

In business since 1849, it is the doyen of San Francisco eateries. Therefore, if you criticize its popularity, you are viewed as a culinary gadfly who only appreciates the newest trends. If you proclaim everything wonderful, you will be accused of being a traditionalist, a roadblock to the creative chefs who are changing the way we eat.

So let's ride the fence a moment and say Tadich offers some of the best and worst characteristics of a traditional restaurant.

There's something totally satisfying about the 1930s Financial District look: The wood partitions between tables, the intricate tile floor and the long ornate bar with a half dozen kinds of cigars displayed for sale at the end.

But when you come down off the fence, you are faced with food that often doesn't live up to the mystique. There's nothing better than well-made traditional recipes or even vegetables cooked to the '50s mark of soggy perfection, but many dishes we sampled on three visits were improperly prepared or handled.

In the fried-prawn entree ($12.25), we encountered enough ammonia aroma to strip wax off a floor. The steamed spinach ($2.25), was served without benefit of salt, pepper or any flavoring.

CIOPPINO PROBLEMS

After eating Tadich Grill's cioppino ($13.25), I can see why this once-popular San Francisco dish has fallen into disfavor. The shrimp were gritty, the other shellfish were rubbery and the tomato sauce was thick, gloppy and sweet, obscuring any flavor that might have lingered in the seafood.

A grilled tuna special was so overcooked and dry, it formed a lump in the throat the accompanying long-branch potatoes, which are sliced thick and fried, tasted as if they had been waiting a long while before hitting the plate.

We also ordered the sauteed scallops in white wine and mushrooms ($12.75). The scallops were as rubbery as bouncing balls and if we hadn't been told what was in the sauce, it would have remained a mystery for eternity. It was brown, starchy and had no flavor save the lemon we squeezed into it.

Some of the best bets on the menu included the sand dabs ($10.25), pan grilled with a light lemon sauce. The fried calamari ($8.75 as an appetizer), presented with both the famous tartar sauce and a red chile sauce, were nicely done and the squid had just the right amount of chewiness.

We also enjoyed the Boston clam chowder ($1.95 a cup), a thick starchy mixture with a heavy dose of celery and clam flavor. But the soup is best at lunch, because by dinner it gets thick enough to paper a wall.

TOOTHSOME TONGUE

The restaurant offers about seven daily specials, most of them fish. Also available are lamb, beef or other meat entrees. On one visit, boiled tongue ($9.95) illustrated how good a down-home recipe can be when done right. Although the tongue was slightly overdone and a bit mushy, the flavor was excellent and well complemented by the creole sauce spooned on top.

The best things about the food are the big bowls of lemon wedges that adorn each table, the tartar sauce that tastes akin to potato salad made from mashed potatoes and the great crusty sourdough bread.

The same tradition that so enlivens these aspects of the restaurant also give a boost to the service. Most waiters have been there for years, wearing white coats, aprons and splashy red ties. These gentleman can sling hash in their sleep, and at times you swear they do, but there's something endearing (and somewhat crusty) about the whole affair.

The wine list, unfortunately, is a throwback to 30 years ago. Only the biggest producers are represented: Wente, Martini, Krug and Mondavi. There's nothing wrong with these wines, but the list, much like the food, seems lazy and lifeless.

After two lunches and a dinner at the restaurant, I can't understand why anyone would wait 45 minutes, standing shoulder to shoulder in a crowded bar, to be seated for this mediocre food. In a day when convenience reigns, I also can't fathom why patrons don't complain about the restaurant's policy of accepting only cash.

Obviously the restaurant has some magical quality that escapes me. After all, the place is always bustling with regular and new customers. So how can all those people be wrong?

Maybe they aren't. The only way to know for sure is to check it out yourself.